Today, we went to Chichen Itza, a Mayan site that has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Wonder of the World (in 2007). It's a fascinating and beautiful place. Plus, we had the privilege of having one of Mexico's premier archaeologists, Tomas Gallareta, with us on our tour of the site. This was a really big deal. Tomas gives tours to heads of state, including a former US President or two.

Really...big...deal. He is an incredible resource for Millsaps College, and I'm happy to have him as a colleague.

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The back of the entrance ticket to Chichen Itza reads "el patrimonio cultural es de todos" (Cultural heritage belongs to all of us.) This is a nice sentiment -- one that I share in some ways -- but it is a sentiment that rings hollow when you visit sites like this. What we see in reality is that it is a cultural heritage for all of us except for the contemporary Maya. Unfortunately, the Maya see little benefit from the 1 million visitors/year who pay about 120 pesos to visit the site. Even the artisans at the site see little benefit.

Also, it is an open question about the extent to which contemporary Maya embrace sites like this as their "heritage." This is a more complicated question than I have time to discuss, and it is certainly a question that the site itself does not encourage visitors to ask!

Both Tomas and Miguel commented on the way that sites like this are managed more like theme parks designed to deliver certain narratives and experiences to tourists, rather than places to think critically about the Maya (and our) past, present and future. It's unfortunate that thinking critically is not an expectation of tourism. It's also unfortunate that our desires and expectations make it near impossible to design a space and deliver an experience that engages and humanizes those whose culture is made "exotic."

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If you haven't picked up on this so far, I think tourism is a collection of contradictions. Chichen Itza exposes us to bits and pieces of Maya history, but it largely ignores the Mayan present. The site helps foster some intercultural exchange, and it creates wealth, but very little of this finds its way to alleviate poverty or create meaningful dialogue between host and guest. In short, tourism holds much possibility and promise, but it is fraught with many problems.

The answer is not to stop touring (I don't think). The answer is to work through these contradictions in thoughtful ways. Thankfully, I'm with 8 thoughtful students who I think are ready to take up these challenges and contradictions -- on this trip and on future ones.

Hasta luego....